PLANNING YOUR TRIP-
TAXIS

From the International Airport-  A taxi to the centre should cost around 110-160 pesos.  DO NOT get a taxi straight from the taxi rank as they are likely to overcharge and can be dangerous.  Go to a remise (taxi) booth inside the airport and ask for a taxi there.  These are reliable and you pay upfront so they will not be able to rip you off.  The other option is to book a car before by sending an e-mail prior to your departure to the remises NEXT who are very reliable and even speak English.  Their website is www.remisesnext.com and their email is info@remisesnext.com.

From the Street in Buenos Aires- Always get Radio Taxis which are the black and yellow taxis which have a sign on the roof saying Radio Taxi.  The ones without, although they look identical are not always registered and may not be safe. 

WHERE TO STAY
BA has many different neighborhoods but I would generally recommend one of the following three:

Palermo
Palermo is enormous and has several different parts to it.  The most recommendable parts are Palermo Viejo or Palermo Hollywood which have a great number of shops, restaurants and bars.   The streets are lined with trees and there a few high rise buildings with houses built on 2 floors dominating.   It is a hub of creativity and is the home to many young foreigners and tourists.  Palermo may be compared to Notting Hill in London or Soho or Chelsea in New York.

Recoleta
Recoleta is probably the most central neighbourhood as it is located at walking distance from the centre between Palermo and San Telmo.  Recoleta is full of old cafes, small local shops, beautiful French architecture and well dressed Argentines.  It is a stone's throw away from Santa Fe which is the main shopping street.  It feels safe and unthreatening as, most building have doormen who are always on the lookout.  It may not appeal to all as it caters more to the older generations with a lack of trendy restaurants and bars.  Recoleta is perhaps like Chelsea or Belgravia in London or Upper East and West Side in New York.

San Telmo
This barrio is the most bohemian.  It has old and authentic bars and restaurants.  It is full of antique shops and has an impressive market  which takes place on its pebbled streets on a Sunday.   It has beautiful churches and houses some of the last fragments of original colonial architecture.  It is a little rough around the edges and may feel unsafe at times but definitely has its charm and gives you a feel for real Argentine barrio life. 

HOTELS

Top Hotels
Alvear Palace Hotel- RECOLETA-www.alvearpalace.com
Regarded as the Ritz of Buenos Aires and one of the leading hotels of the world, the Alvear is ornate and wonderfully grand , reminding us of Argentina's age of prosperity at the beginning of last Century.  Excellent breakfasts and food in general, the location is superb and the spa is very good.
Park Hyatt Buenos Aires- RECOLETA-www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com
The Hyatt has a wonderful courtyard and is regarded as one of the top hotels of Buenos Aires.  It is a mixture of old and new with its beautiful Belle Epoque facade and more modern interior and exhibits of contemporary art displayed on its walls. Very good service and well located.
Loi Suites- RECOLETA- www.loisuites.com.ar/es/recoleta-hotel-buenos-aires/alojamiento-recoleta
Loi Suites is spacious, tastefully decorated and has all the luxuries of a top hotel.  It is very well located without having the price tags of the two mentioned above.
Sofitel- RETIRO- www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-3253-sofitel-buenos-aires/index.shtml
The Sofitel is a stylish an charming hotel located next to the most important galleries in Buenos Aires.  The area is perhaps not as residential as Recoleta but it is only a 5 minute walk away and very central.  

Boutique Hotels
Home- PALERMO- www.homebuenosaires.com
Run by a young English- Argentine couple, Home is both retro and cool.  You can sip cocktails by the pool or venture out into the streets of Palermo.  The area is full of bars and restaurants.  
Costa Petit- PALERMO-www.costapetithotel.com
This small hotel is tasteful, intimate and comfortable.  It is luxurious without being over the top.
Craft-PALERMO-www.crafthotel.com
Extremely well located, Craft is well decorated and has a good roof terrace with sun loungers.  It is very reasonable in price.
Costa Rica- PALERMO- www.hotelcostarica.com.ar
It is in walking distance of the buzzing part of Palermo.  It could be better located but it is a nice, clean and affordable option. 
Ricks Place- SAN TELMO-www.loderick.com
This hotel belong to an Englishman who left the city of London to dance tango.  It is in the heart of San Telmo with a magnificent roof terrace where films are projected on summer nights.  Rick and Louis, the dogs, are part of the place and all the guests have breakfast around a large table.  Homely feel, highly recommendable and  very good value.
Casa Sur Art Hotel- RECOLETA- www.casasurhotel.com
Well located and a good alternative for those who do not want to stay in a big hotel like the Alvear or the Hyatt.


RESTAURANTS-

Steak
Don Julio- Excellent steaks, wines and atmosphere.   Totally unpretentious and highly recommendable.
PALERMO-Guatemala 4691. Tel: 4831-9564 / 4832-6058 $$
La Cabrera-  Full of tourist but very good meat and lovely restaurant.  Each dish is accompanied by lots of little pots of different condiments.  Portions are enormous so always order one thing between two.  Book in advance and arrive on time otherwise they will give away your table.
PALERMO-Cabrera 5099. Tel: 4831-7002 $$
Las Cabras-  Excellent atmosphere and great for a warm summer evening as you sit outside at red tables and chairs and the whole place is candle lit.  The food is very good and not too expensive.  I highly recommend it.
PALERMO-Fitzroy 1795. Tel: 5197-5303 $
La Brigada- Supposedly one of the best steak places in BA.  Some say that you can cut their steaks with a spoon.
SAN TELMO-Estados Unidos 465. Tel: 4361-5557 $$$
Desnivel- Cheap and cheerful and you can eat delicious steak.
SAN TELMO- Defensa 855. Tel: 4300-9081 $
Fervor- Smart and slick.  Delicious steak.
RECOLETA- Posadas 1519. Tel: 4804-4944 $$
Dada-  Steak with a twist.  The steak Dada is undoubtedly the thing to order.  It is small and bohemian but the service can be terrible so do not go there if you are in a rush.
CENTRO- San Martín 941. Tel: 4314-4787 $$

Other Food-
Osaka-  This japanese/peruvian fusion restaurant is one of my personal favorites.  I am not a sushi lover but love the food here.  The crayfish soup and passion fruit salmon sushimi as well as the strawberry and passion fruit daikiri are a must.
PALERMO-Soler 5608.  Tel: 4775-6964 $$$
Oviedo- Modern cuisine and the best fish in town.  Not for someone on a tight budget and make sure you book well in advance as it is always full. Highly recommendable with a good atmosphere.
RECOLETA- Beruti 2602 - Tel: 4821-3741/4822-5415 $$$
Tegui- The sort of restaurant you'd expect to find in New York, this slick and stylish restaurant hidden behind a graffiti covered facade,serves delicious and original food.  It is on the expensive side but well worth it.
PALERMO-Costa Rica 5852.  Tel: 5291-3333
Bengal-  Arguably the best Indian food, lovely setting and great service but definitely not cheap.
RETIRO- Arenales 837. Tel: 4314-2926 $$$
La Bourgogne- Located in one of Buenos Aires' top hotels, El Alvear, La Bourgogne is claimed to be one of the  best restaurants in South America.  The food is expensive but well worth it.  The setting is ok but could be better.
RECOLETA- Ayacucho 2027.  Tel: 4808-2100/4805-3857 $$$$
Cocina Sunae-  A closed door restaurant which opens to the public on Friday nights lives up to its reputation as the best Asian food in the city.  Christina, an excellent chef and charming host, will leave you absolutely delighted with your evening.  She can also cater for you in the comfort of your own home.  Book early as there are limited spaces.
COLEGIALES- www.cocinasunae.com $$
Petanque-  Lovely setting and excellent French food.
SAN TELMO- Defensa 596. Tel:4342 7930 $$
Tancat-  Brilliant tapas restaurant which is recommendable to stop at for lunch if you are wondering around Florida and Plaza San Martin.
CENTRO- Paraguay 645.  Tel: 4312-5442/6106 $$
Sarkis- Very good Arabic food.  Always packed, good atmosphere, belly dancers and not expensive.  Get there before 8.30-9 to get a table.
PALERMO- Thames 1101. Tel: 4772-4911 $
Taj Mahal-  Delicious Indian food where you can find a spicy curry which is unusual as Argentines tend to hate spicy food. 
PALERMO- Nicaragua 4345.  Tel: 4831-5716 $$
Status-  A bit of a dive but delicious ceviche, pisco sours and Peruvian food.  Always full of Peruvians, simple setting and very reasonable.
CONGRESO- Virrey Cevallos 178.  Tel: 4382-8531 $
Casal de Cataluña- Here you can eat them most delicious suckling pig and other Spanish dishes in the setting of an old club which makes you feel  as though you have gone back 50 years in time.  It can be a little empty.
SAN TELMO- Chacabuco 863. Tel: 4361-0191 / 4307-0912 $$
Les Ancients Combattants- This French club serves very good and gourmet French food.   Take a taxi and be alert as the restaurant is not located in the best barrio.
CONSTITUCION- Santiago del Estero 1435.  Tel: 4305-1701/ 4776-2307 $$$
Club Sirio-  All you can eat Arab food.  It is located on the top floor of the old Arab Syrian club. Delicious dips to start with followed by a selection of hot dishes and pastries for pudding.
RECOLETA- Ayacucho 1496.  Tel: 4806-5764 $$

TYPICALLY ARGENTINE CAFES

Café San Juan
SAN TELMO- Avenida San Juan 450
Rodi
RECOLETA- Vicente Lopez 1900
Cafe Tortoni
CENTRO- Avenida de Mayo 825

BARS

Carnal- Carnal is always good fun and has a big roof terrace which is perfect for summer nights.  This bar is especially popular on a Thursday and everyone gathers there before going out to the nightclub.
PALERMO- Niceto Vega 5511.
Congo- Congo has lots of outdoor space, a good bar and a pleasant atmosphere.
PALERMO- Honduras 5329
878- Stylish and spacious closed door bar where you can sit comfortably and you can hear yourself speak. It always has a good atmosphere and strong cocktails.
PALERMO- Thames 878
Milión-  This lovely converted house is a great place for a cocktail in the summer as you can sit in a garden.
RECOLETA- Paraná 1048
5004 Paraguay- This closed door bar is like going to someone's house party.  You can sit in different living rooms or listen to the DJ playing music on the roof terrace.  A good place to socialise with Argentines.  Open from Thrusdays to Sundays.
PALERMO- Paraguay 5004 (on the corner of Juan B Justo.)
L'Abeille- A sophisticated cocktail bar for all ages.   Perfect for a quiet after dinner drink before heading to bed.
RETIRO- Arroyo 872

NIGHT CLUBS

It is advisable to go after two in the morning because that is when they start filling up.
Pacha- If you want a big night on a Saturday night, go to Pacha.  It is a taxi ride away but once you get there you will not be disappointed.  It is always packed and has different floors and rooms to appeal to different tastes.  It is mainly electronic music.
COSTA NERA- Av. Costa Nera y Pampa
Shampoo-  Is a small nightclub which turns into a strip club during the week.  It has disco balls and white sofas and you can often find young wealthy Argentines there.  Surprisingly Del Potro was seen having a drink there recently. 
RECOLETA- Av. Quintana 352
Kika-  Plays everything and anything.  You may be listening to Mr Bombastic one minute and to house music the next.  There is another room which often has a band playing.  It is a good place to go and dance and is particularly popular on a Thrusday night.
PALERMO- Honduras 5339
Crobar- Electronic music, good fun on a Thursday or Friday.
PALERMO PARK- Av.Libertador 3886 / Paseo de la Infanta / Arco 17

THINGS TO DO IN BA

Opera, Ballet and Concerts at Teatro Colón-
Teatro Colón recently opened its doors to the public and being almost entirely restored to its former glory.  Known as one of the 5 best Opera Houses in the world, it is well worth a visit.  To get tickets, go to www.shop.tuentrada.com/online/calendar.asp.

Private Tours-
The perfect person to give you a tour of Buenos Aires is Cecilia Ball.  She will give you a fascinating insight into the city with her anecdotes, stories and enormous knowledge of the city.  ceciliaball24@yahoo.com.ar.

Walks
Here are some suggested routes  which will allow you to see some of the city's main sights and landmarks.

Route 1- Start in Recoleta cemetery then walk to the Bellas Artes museum.  You can then stroll down Figeroa Alcorta to the Malba Museum where you will walk past the giant scultpure  of a flower made to mark the millennium.  Have a wander around the museum and stop off for some lunch there as it has a very good restaurant.  I then recommend that you get a taxi to Palermo Viejo and wander around the shops and galleries there if you have the energy.

Route 2- Begin at Congress on Callao which in the Centro then stop off at the famous old Cafe Tortoni for breakfast.  Carry on down to Avenida de Mayo until you get to Plaza de Mayo, the home of La Casa Rosada, the president's headquarters.  This route will take you past old churches and buildings.  If you carry on a little further you will get to San Telmo which is great to have a walk around.  If you have time left hop in a taxi and visit La Boca where there are colourful houses and people dancing tango on the street.  Do not go after dark or wander off the tourist track as it is an extremely rough part of town.

Route 3- You can also walk to Retiro, visit Museo Fernandez Blanco and the galleries.  Walk through Plaza San Martin where you will see some historic and stunning architecture.  Carry on down Calle Florida where they have masses of shops and street performers.  You can then walk to Puerto Madero, a newly developed part of town which is on the river front and has still managed to preserve its nature reserve.
 
Museums
Malba- Houses the best collection of Latin American modern and contemporary art in Argentina if not in Latin America.  Definitely worth a visit and stop off for lunch at he restaurant which has delicious food.
PALERMO- Avda. Figueroa Alcorta 3415.  Open 12am-8pm.  Closed on Tuesdays.
Museo Fernandez Blanco- This museum could do with a face lift but has a wonderful collection of silver and objects which date back to post colonial time.  The building and garden are stunning.  I definitely recommend this hidden beauty.
RETIRO-1422 Suipacha. Open 2pm-7pm daily and from 11am-7pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Closed on Mondays.
Museo de las Bellas Artes-  This museum has a very good collection of Argentine art and sometimes has interesting temporary exhibitions.
RECOLETA- Avda. Libertador 1473. Open 12.30am-8.30pm daily and from 9.30am-8.30pm on Saturdays and Sundays. Closed on Mondays.
Museo Nacional de Arte Decorativo-
Avenida del Libertados 1902.  Open 2pm-7pm daily. Closed on Mondays and on Sundays in January and February.
Museo Xul Solar-  Located in the converted home of the artist, this museum has an incredible collection of his work.
BARRIO NORTE- Laprida 1212. Open 12pm-7pm daily. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.
Fundación Proa- Recently refurbished, this modern/contemporary space in Boca puts on high quality  international exhibitions.  Worth a visit if you are in this part of town.
BOCA- Av. Pedro de Mendoza 1929. Open 11am-7pm. Closed on Mondays.
Museo Evita-
Great display, full of Evita´'s clothes and possessions.  Do not take the narrative too seriously as it is extremely biased.
PALERMO CHICO- Lafinur 2988.  Open 11am-7pm. Closed on Mondays.

Galleries
For modern art, visit Retiro especially around Calle Arroyo which has a handful of very good galleries.  For contemporary art you are better off visiting galleries in Palermo such as Braga Menendez, Garchi Prieto or Appetite and Zavaleta Lab in San Telmo.  For a guide to all the galleries and exhibitions visit www.mapadelasartes.com.

On the last Friday of every month, Gallery Nights takes place where champagne is served and a circuit is set out and information handed out on the different exhibition and spaces. For more information visit www.gallerynights.com.

Tango
In Argentina you can either watch tango as a show, watch the musicians or go to a Milonga where people have classes and dance.  You can either sit there sipping your drink and watching couples gliding along the dance floor or join in and give it a go.

Milongas-
Grisel- Traditional Milonga frequented by couples who have been dancing for decades.
ONCE- La Rioja 1180.  Tel: 4957-7157
Salon Channing- Another traditional venue where you will see highly experienced dancers dancing away.
PALERMO- Scalabrini Ortiz 1331. Tel: 4832-6753.
Catedral- You will undoubtedly be surprised at the enormous space that this venue occupies.  The space is so big that they sometimes have trouble filling it but it is definitely worth a visit.   This often hosts a young crowd.
AMALGRO- Sarmiento 4006. Tel: 4342-4794.

Tango Shows- For tickets to the best shows, please get in touch.

Tango Music- 
Torquato Tasso-  This underground tango venue is one of my personal favourites.  It is the haunt of the best tango musicians in town and a wonderful place to see live tango music (there is no dancing).  There is an excellent atmosphere, it is not too expensive and you can eat and drink whilst watching the performers on stage.
SAN TELMO- www.torquatotasso.com, Defensa 1575, 43076506

Wine Tasting
I highly recommend a wine tasting session in Nigel's cellar.  He will tell you everything you want to know about Argentine wines and Malbec. 
www.0800-vino.com

Football
Football matches in the Boca stadium are fantastic.  The atmosphere is electric and the standard of football is excellent.  You can either get tickets off someone on the street which is never guaranteed and can be expensive but it is better to go with a company who takes you there and shows you to your seats.  The best company to go with is Tangol- www.tangol.com/eng/football_matches.aspx?Country=AR

Polo
If it is not an important semi-final or final, you can generally get a ticket at the door.  If you would like a ticket to the finals or semi-finals in Palermo or Hurlingham, please get in touch.

Shopping
San Telmo Market on a Sunday is a must- 
This takes place from the main square all the way down Calle Defensa.  You can find everything and anything there.

Presents and Argentine crafts in Recoleta
Aranadu- Belts, bracelets, espadrilles, silver and clothes. Ayacucho 1924
Victoria- Rugs, ponchos, mates, leather, silver. Rodriguez Peña 1340
Curtiembre- Lots and lots of belts, bags and leather. Arenales 1793
Artesanias Argentinas-  Lovely wooden, bone and silver salad bowls, dishes and boxes. Also sells rugs and woolly things. Montevideo 1386 

Clothes and Fashion in Palermo Viejo
Begin at Plaza Serrano and walk down Costa Rica, Goritti Armenia and all the streets within a ten block radius.

For leather jackets, boots and bags, Calle Florida is probably best.

Bomba Del Tiempo Drumming Show on a Monday-
This event takes place on a weekly basis outside the Teatro Konex.  A large quantity of drummers get together and beat their instruments whilst young lookers-on dance and sip beer.  Buy tickets at the door but make sure you get there early or on time as there are always massive queues. www.labombadetiempo.blogspot.com

Grafitti Tour-
Marina and Jo will take you to see some impressive graffiti works in a part of town which you would not otherwise have seen.  The tour includes visits to galleries, meetings with artists and a drink in a graffiti bar to top off a highly enjoyable afternoon.  Great guides and an excellent tour. www.graffitimundo.com

JUST OUTSIDE BA

Day trip to Tigre-
Located on the river, Tigre is a lovely place to go and spend the day.  You can get on an old boat which takes you around the little islands and rivers where you can see picturesque houses perched on its banks.  The boat will also take you to have lunch at one of these little hideouts.  There is also a wicker market in Tigre which is worth having a wander around.  For more information please get in touch.

Day trip to Colonia-
Colonia is a lovely little town situated on the other side of the river in Uruguay.  You can take a ferry which takes fifty minutes and pop over there for lunch or for an extra stamp in your passport.  Everyone rents little golf buggies and drives around the town.  www.coloniaexpress.com

OTHER SUGGESTIONS

Golf- If you would like to play golf,  I can arrange for you to play at the Jockey Club which has a fantastic course.   To play golf in the best golf clubs around the country, please get in touch.

Buying Property and Land- If you would like to buy property in Buenos Aires please get in touch.  Jaime is a lawyer and we have experience in buy and selling properties both as residents and non-residents. 

Massages- If you would like a massage in the comfort of  your own home, get in touch with Anna Templeton. www.annatempleton.com

English Au Pairs- For English au pairs in Argentine homes e-mail- www.aupairinargentina.com

Art Classes for Children in Spanish or English-   Bella is a trained teacher who is full of creative ideas to entertain your children for hours in lovely and spacious house in Palermo. It can also allow you to go shopping for a couple of hours in her fashionable neighbourhood. www.bellasartencasa.blogspot.com

Bacon- Heath Baines makes delicious real bacon once every other week and delivers it to your door in time for a weekend fry-up. Heath@vingt-cinq.com.ar or call 011 15 6871 6859.